Tucked away in the mountains of northwestern Greece, Ioannina is the capital of Epirus – a region known for its dramatic scenery and independent spirit. Home to more than 60,000 residents and a large university community, it sits beside the beautiful Lake Pamvotida.
Ioannina’s layered history unfolds in the fortified stone walls of its inhabited castle – a legacy of Byzantine and Ottoman rule – and in the meticulous work of its legendary silversmiths. It’s a place where you can explore a lakeside island without cars, get lost in the alleys of a living citadel, and connect with a side of Greece that feels both deeply historic and vibrantly alive.
Step Back in Time Inside the Kastro
To understand Ioannina’s history, you need to step into its magnificent Kastro, or Castle. This is not a sterile ruin, but a living, breathing district that has been inhabited for centuries. Its formidable walls were initially built by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian in the 6th century. Today, they still encircle a captivating world of winding lanes, historic homes, and remains, making it one of the most compelling Ioannina attractions.
Christians, Muslims, and Jews once lived and worked here side by side. The castle is divided into two citadels, and its highest point, the northeastern acropolis known as “Its Kale”, was the inner sanctum of the infamous Ottoman ruler, Ali Pasha.
Explore the Its Kale Citadel and the Fethiye Mosque
Walking through the gates of “Its Kale” feels like entering a historical park. Here, the Fethiye Mosque, built in the 17th century on the ruins of a Byzantine church, stands as a graceful testament to the city’s Ottoman past. Beside the elegant minaret lie the tombs of Ali Pasha and his family. The citadel holds the ruins of Ali Pasha’s palace, a grand complex that once included harems, kitchens, and a gunpowder store, and offers stunning panoramic views across the lake.
Discover the Kale Museums
Within Its Kale, two interesting museums offer deeper insights into the region’s soul. The Byzantine Museum showcases a rich collection of icons, manuscripts, and early Christian art from across the Epirus region, while the Silversmithing Museum pays homage to Ioannina’s most celebrated craft. For centuries, the city’s artisans were renowned across the Balkans for their intricate filigree work. The museum brilliantly displays this heritage, with stunning examples of jewellery, weapons, and household objects.
Take a Boat Across Lake Pamvotida
Lake Pamvotida’s vast, silvery waters add so much to the city’s atmosphere. Its misty mornings and serene sunsets have inspired poets and artists for generations. One of the essential activities here is taking the short, ten-minute boat ride to Nisi – the enchanting Lake Islet where time seems to stand still.
Visit Nisi – the Lake Islet
As you step off the ferry, you enter a world without cars. The Lake Islet is a tiny, inhabited settlement of stone houses, narrow cobbled pathways, and historic monasteries. It’s a place where every corner reveals a charming view or a hidden courtyard. The tiny islet is dotted with lovely tavernas serving fresh lake fish and local delicacies – the perfect setting for a peaceful lunch.
Visit the Ali Pasha Museum
The island’s most (in)famous resident was Ali Pasha, who used it as a final refuge before his assassination in 1822. The Monastery of Agios Panteleimon, where he met his end, now houses the Ali Pasha Museum. This small but fascinating museum recounts the dramatic story of his life and death, displaying personal belongings and local artifacts. The very floorboards where the “Lion of Ioannina” was killed are marked, offering a sense of one of the most turbulent periods in Greek history.
Wander the Atmospheric Old Town
The island’s most famous resident was Ali Pasha, who used it as a final refuge before his assassination in 1822. The Monastery of Agios Panteleimon, where he met his end, now houses the Ali Pasha Museum. This small but fascinating museum recounts the dramatic story of his life and death, displaying personal belongings and local artifacts. The very floorboards where the “Lion of Ioannina” was killed are marked, offering a sense of one of the most turbulent periods in Greek history.
Stroll Along Averof Street
Averof Street is the main artery connecting the modern city with its historic core. It’s a lively hub where you can feel the pulse of daily life. Branching off from it, you’ll find smaller streets where the city’s famous silversmiths still practice their craft in tiny workshops. This is where you can find truly authentic Greek experiences in Ioannina, watching artisans create intricate filigree jewellery, a tradition passed down through generations.
Find Authentic Crafts and Local Delicacies
Ioannina’s artisan heritage extends beyond silver. In the old bazaar, you might find metalsmiths, cobblers, and craftsmen producing high-quality knives. The city’s shops are also a treasure trove of local Epirote products. Look for local cheese varieties like metsovone and galotyri, aromatic mountain herbs, and the potent local spirit, tsipouro.
Savour the Flavours of Epirus
A visit to Ioannina is incomplete without indulging in its distinctive cuisine. The food of the Epirus region is hearty, flavourful, and rooted in tradition. The city’s lakeside setting and mountainous hinterland provide a bounty of incredible ingredients.
What to Eat in Ioannina
Epirote cuisine is famous for its savoury pies, or pites. These are not an afterthought but a culinary art form, with delicate, flaky pastry filled with everything from wild greens and herbs to local cheeses and meats. Other must-try dishes include:
– Frog’s Legs: A surprising local delicacy, often served fried or in a rich tomato sauce.
– Lake Fish: Freshly caught eel and trout from Lake Pamvotida, often grilled or smoked.
– Local Cheeses: Look for Metsovone and the creamy Galotyri.
– Hearty Meat Dishes: Slow-cooked stews are a staple in the mountain cuisine.
This focus on authentic, homegrown cooking is central to the region’s identity — something you can explore further in our Guide to the best food in the Balkans.
Where to Try Local Cuisine
Head to the lakeside promenade or Nisi for fresh fish with a view, or explore the alleys of the old town for traditional Epirote pies. A meal at a restaurant like Seirios or Fysa Roufa offers a taste of local hospitality and culinary heritage.
If this glimpse into the heart of Epirus has sparked your curiosity, you can discover it with us on our Country & Culinary Roads: Albania and Northern Greece Tour.